O
ne glance at the slogan patches, checkered print and studs a plenty, it’s plain as day- the Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear collection was all about sticking it to the man.
As models walked the runway to Public Enemy’s “Fight the Power”, the message of anti-establishment rang out loud and clear. With Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier at the helm, hit designers with a penchant for protest and a striking, youthful aesthetic, this collection featured a mashup of 70’s flower power, a hint of Victorian sensibility in combination with anachronistic, in-your-face, punk styling.
“It’s about this character that we’re trying to do, this very young, vibrant, vital girl. It’s a very youth-oriented brand, so the one thing that has to permeate through everything is that positivity of youth and feeling like you can change the world,” Luella stated.
Using a simple palette of royal blue, olive green, red and black, the “Suffragette” models showcased a variety of looks including layered skirts with paisley patterning or peekaboo black lace. In stark contrast to the Victorian era prints, models wore utilitarian accessories, such as fitted utility belts and pyramid stud military boots.
The punk influence continually resurfaces in patches reading “Solidarity”, “Unity” or “Our Future” emblazoned with peace signs and through the ubiquitous studded berets, a surefire trend for A/W ‘15. Armored leggings with belt-buckle straps down the side show definite commercial appeal, along with the studded pointed flats (say adieu to those creepers from last season!).
Rising model Kendall Jenner fell right in line, looking fresh in a fitted blazer and a pocketed maxi skirt. Outerwear trends included long woolen trenchcoats, split ponchos and cropped military jackets. Mixed textures were abound, like in the lace-up grommet dress with splashes of tartan and a frilly peter pan collar.
Finding inspiration from DIY culture and rebellious punk accessories, Katie encourages girls, “Buy a beret. Make some badges. Get some old jeans and put the patches on them. You can buy the clothes and there are ideas on how to create your own as well.”
Written by Jade Nicolette
Luella’s focus on a “young, vibrant, vital girl” really comes through in the mix of playful prints and assertive slogans.
The lace-up grommet dress with tartan and a peter pan collar sounds like a perfect example of the collection’s mashup approach.
The consistent punk influence, from studded accessories to protest slogans, ties all the different references together more than I expected.
The idea of “Suffragette” models paired with punk messaging adds an interesting historical layer to what could otherwise just be a trend-heavy collection.
Switching from creepers to studded pointed flats feels like a smart evolution of the punk aesthetic without losing attitude.
The color palette of royal blue, olive, red, and black kept everything grounded despite all the clashing influences like paisley skirts and tartan details.
The DIY angle Katie Hillier mentions, like adding patches to old jeans, makes the whole rebellious theme feel accessible rather than just runway fantasy.
Utility accessories like fitted belts and those pyramid stud boots balanced out the softer elements like frilly collars and lace.
The mix of Victorian lace with punk studs felt surprisingly cohesive, especially with those peekaboo black lace pieces paired against utility belts and military boots.
The slogan patches reading “Our Future” alongside peace signs really reinforce that youthful optimism Luella Bartley talks about.
Combining 70s flower power with punk and even a bit of Victorian styling could have been chaotic, but the article makes it sound intentional and youth-driven.
Kendall Jenner’s look with the fitted blazer and pocketed maxi skirt seemed like one of the more wearable interpretations of the collection.
Those studded berets really stood out as a defining accessory, and I can see why the article calls them a surefire A/W trend.
There’s something refreshing about encouraging customization, like making badges and altering jeans, instead of just buying everything straight off the rack.
I appreciate how the outerwear, especially the long wool trench coats and split ponchos, still carried that rebellious tone without being overly loud.
I’m intrigued by the armored leggings with belt-buckle straps; they sound edgy but still commercial enough to actually sell.
I liked how the Public Enemy soundtrack tied directly into the “Fight the Power” theme, making the slogan patches like “Unity” and “Solidarity” feel more than just decoration.