Interfacing is a simple and easy way to add extra stiffness to fabric. Some common examples of projects that may need interfacing include the collar of shirt, around the circumference of a cuff, some waistbands, pockets, necklines or shoulder seams. There are various kinds of interfacing, including fusible and non-fusible options that need to be sewn onto the fabric. With fusible interfacing there is a sticky adhesive along the side which will adhere easily with the proper amount of heat from an iron. You might want to opt for non-fusible interfacing if you are using fabrics that can’t withstand high heat or if they have a loose weave. Projects that require specialized fabrics, like those with heavy textures, fur, velvet, sequins, metallics, vinyl, mesh or lace, will need to use sew-in interfacing.
When it comes to knit fabric, interfacing helps reinforce the fabric and will avoid the fabric from becoming stretched out. If you are following a pattern, make sure to follow the directions carefully and purchase the right type of interfacing for your project. There are three major kinds of interfacing, including woven, non-woven or knit interfacing. Non-woven is generally the most commonly used, and does not have a grain. Woven interfacing, on the other hand, does have a grain, and should be cut on the bias. Knit interfacing is much akin to knit fabric, which has a bit of stretch and works well with knit fabric projects. Another thing to consider is the interfacing’s weight, which can be light, medium or heavy weight options.
Next, you’ll have to learn the proper way to apply the interfacing. If you have extra time, try using a scrap piece of fabric and test out the interfacing process. You can work slowly and ensure that the interfacing is the appropriate weight for that fabric. After that, you’ll be ready to begin with the actual fabric for your project.
- First, place your fabric with the right side facing down. You’ll need an iron, so adjust the temperature settings to the appropriate heat level.
- Then, place the interfacing with the fusible side downward on to the fabric. How can you tell it apart? The fusible side has a slight bumpy texture, and the non-fusible side does not.
- Next, use a cloth that’s lightly damp and place on top of your interfacing. Press the iron for 10-15 seconds, depending on the weight of your interfacing. Remember, do not slide your iron around the fabric, you’ll need to actually pick up the iron and remove it from the fabric to apply the heat to various sections.
- Using the cloth is important, because you won’t want any interfacing to accidentally stick to your iron.
Before you begin, make sure to browse through our interfacing options, available for sale here at MJTrends. We have fusible black interfacing, sew in firm interfacing, along with sew in lightweight and midweight options.
Written by Jade Nicolette
Matching Products:
Sew in lightweight Interfacing
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Sew in midweight Interfacing
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Fusible black Interfacing
$4.99
The explanation of how to identify the fusible side by its bumpy texture is simple but super useful. I’ve definitely second-guessed which side was which more than once.
I like that you mentioned testing on a scrap first; it’s easy to skip but saves so much frustration. Figuring out the right weight before committing makes a big difference in the final look.
I appreciated the reminder not to slide the iron when applying fusible interfacing; I’ve definitely made that mistake and ended up with bubbles. The tip about using a damp cloth is something I usually skip but will try now.
Good point about choosing sew-in interfacing for tricky fabrics like velvet or vinyl. I’ve ruined fusible on textured materials before, so this explanation of when to avoid heat is really helpful.
It’s helpful how you tied interfacing choices back to specific garment areas like collars and waistbands. Seeing those practical examples makes it easier to understand why different weights and types are needed.
The breakdown of woven, non-woven, and knit interfacing clarified a lot for me, especially cutting woven on the bias. I didn’t realize how much the grain direction could affect the final structure.
Your note about knit interfacing preventing stretch distortion was spot on. I’ve had necklines warp over time, and this reinforces why matching interfacing type to fabric matters so much.