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pieces so all arrows are parallel to the fabric selvage—that
stripe of fabric at the edge where there is no vinyl coating.
For both types of PVC, the grainline must be followed in pattern
layout to ensure a garment stretches in the right places.
2-way should stretch around the body, for proper fit and easy
bending at the waist, elbows and knees. Grainline is even
more important for home décor patterns, because curtains
and slipcovers will sag if the stretch is improperly arranged
along the vertical hang.
Professional designers recommend allowing stretchy fabrics
to settle on your cutting surface for 24 hours before tracing
and cutting. Hold pattern pieces in place with fabric weights,
and trace lines with tailor’s chalk or disappearing
ink fabric marking pens. Water-soluble fabric marking pens
may be used if the instructions say it can be washed out in
cold water. Never use a tracing wheel, tailor tacks, or thread
tracing, as these methods will leave puncture marks in the
finished article. Cut fabric with sharp scissors, stopping
occasionally to allow fabric to settle back into place.
Pinning
Pinholes are permanent in vinyls and all leather-like fabrics.
For best results on seams, use double-faced basting tape instead.
Apply tape within the seam allowance, at the cut edge of fabric.
Basting tape sticks easily to PVC with the lightest touch
and keeps the fabric from curling or stretching as you sew.
It can be removed cleanly by peeling, or simply cut away after
stitching when the seam allowance is graded. If you must pin,
use extra-fine dressmaker pins well within the seam allowance,
and always use a thimble. Although PVC is a medium-weight
fabric, pushing pins through the fine knit and vinyl coating
requires a firm steady push.
Choosing appropriate needles and thread
Although PVC is backed in a knit, you should not use a ball
point needle, because it will tear ugly holes in the Polyurethane.
Instead, use a sharp size 11 in your machine for seam construction
and topstitching. Use a “leather” needle to baste
in zippers. Leather needles are heavyweight needles designed
with a razor tip to cut through leather and leather-like fabrics
that resist normal needle piercing. This makes them a terrific
choice for machine sewing through both PVC and zipper tape
in a single line of stitching. The special groove down the
front of the needle protects the thread against breakage due
to from friction as the needle slips into the thick fabric
layers. If you will hand sew, then use a # 7, 8, or 9 Sharp
needle. Again, use a thimble to push pins into PVC.
Because PVC stretches, the thread it is sewn with must stretch
also. Polyester has the best give when twisted into thread.
100% Polyester thread is recommended for normal seam construction,
but all-purpose thread that contains at least 60% polyester
will suffice and is often easier to find in stores. Do not
use all-cotton thread. It is a common misconception that since
cotton thread is stronger it will support stretchy knits.
Cotton thread is “strong” because it does NOT
stretch, and, in fact, may shrink when washed to leave puckered
seams in non-cotton fabrics.