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as you serge. You will need to adjust the differential feed dials on
your machine to prevent fabric expansion. Consult your overlock machine
operator’s manual for the proper settings, and test the stitch on
scraps of leftover PVC, making adjustments as necessary.
Many designers choose not to line their vinyl-wear. However, if the color
of the knit backing will show and does not please you, use a stretch lining
or widen the facings on the pattern.
Hemming on any stretch knit should be done after the article has hung
for 24 hours on a hanger, to ensure an even hem.
Understitching is especially important in fabrics that cannot be pressed.
Use this technique to keep your facings from rolling to the outside of
your apparel or home décor creations. To understitch, open out
the facing and finger press the seam allowance toward it. Sew a medium
length straight stitch through the facing close to the seamline, catching
the seam allowance.
Topstitching not only adds intrigue to a PVC creation, but also flattens
the seam allowances in lieu of a hot iron. One common complaint from PVC
sewers is that topstitching thread can appear dull on shiny PVC. To overcome
this dilemma, try topstitching in a matching shade of rayon thread like
those designed for machine embroidery. This thread is shiny enough to
compliment the vinyl surface and its loosely twisted construction allows
for give. (Note: Rayon thread is not sturdy enough for seam construction
and should be used for decorative finishes only.)
Edgestitching is a form of topstitching sewn very close to the seam,
drawing less attention to the stitches. Edgestitching has a more pleasing
appearance on less casual garments.
Consider these seam finishes for strength and a designer look: flat-felled,
topstitched, double topstitched, welted, double welted, slotted, lapped,
or tucked. Instructions on how to create these finishes can be found in
most sewing guidebooks.
TLC for your PVC
Garments constructed of Patent Vinyl Cloth should be hand washed, or machine
washed in the gentle cycle, with cold water and a mild non-bleach detergent
such as Woolite. Short garments may be hung to dry, while heavier outfits
are best dried flat to prevent stress to the shoulder and waist seams.
Curtains, sofa covers, and other home décor may be sponged-wiped
with a soft sponge soaked in cold water. Accessories are best sponged
off in cold, with a light addition of detergent if the article has contacted
something sticky. Rinse the sponge well with cold water and re-wipe to
remove soapy residue. Keep sharp and abrasive objects away from your creations,
to avoid damage to the smooth shiny surface. Finally, the best TLC you
can give to your PVC creations is to show them off!
About the author... N'stasha Ariel grew up in the high-fashion climate
of New York. Although she has lived in many states since then, she never
forgets her NY roots. Today, she designs Gothic and Renaissance clothing,
corsetry, and custom costuming. A skilled leather carver, N'stasha also
enjoys creating ornate courbouilli armor. Her previous publications have
been in the fields of short fiction and poetry, in periodicals such as
Sensations Magazine, The Chronicle, and Exposed.